
- Regulator Service - B/C Service - Drysuit Service
- Tank VIP’s - Tank Hydro’s -Tank Tumbling
- Eddy Current Testing - O2 Service - Computer
For the time in between your annual or semi-annual servicing, you as the owner can help protect and extend the life of your scuba gear by following the post dive recommendations we have included below.
Equipment MaintenanceRegulators – After each day of diving, the regulator must be cleaned, inspected and prepared for the next use or for storage. As soon as the regulator is removed from the SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator inlet port. This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and therefore has been under water. Be sure to blow out the water in this cap before securing it over the inlet port. If your dust cap is O-Ring sealed ensure that the O-Ring is in place inside the dust cap. As soon as possible after diving, the regulator should be soaked in warm (not over 120 degrees) tap water, for a short period of time, to remove salt and mineral deposits. The preferred method is to attach the regulator to a SCUBA cylinder, open the cylinder valve and thoroughly soak both the first and second stage regulators. Pay particular attention to directing water into the mainspring cavity of the first stage regulator and the second stage mouthpiece. Depress the purge button several times while the regulator is submerged in water. If no SCUBA cylinder is available, follow the above procedure, but be very careful NOT to depress the purge button, or leave the dust cap off when the regulator is submerged in water. Failure to do this will result in water entering both regulator stages, which could result in internal corrosion. Shake dry and wipe the regulator’s exterior with a clean cloth. Store the regulator in a cool, dry place with a large loop in the hoses. Do not store in a small regulator bag, as this will damage the hoses.
Buoyancy Compensators
Internal Care - In a salt water environment, it is extremely important to flush all the salt out of the B/C before it dries and forms rock salt. The rock salt will cut the bladder to shreds in a very short period of time. The B/C should be rinsed internally with warm (not over 120 degrees) water after each day of diving. Depress the oral inflator button and allow warm water to flow into the B/C until it is about 1/3 full. Grip the B/C by the top with one hand and the bottom with the other allowing water to accumulate on one side of the B/C only. Gather all the straps and the oral inflator hose in one hand and shake the B/C from side to side allowing the water to travel rapidly from one end of the B/C to the other. Then transfer the water to the other side and repeat the procedure. Next, gather all the water to the oral inflator side of the drain valve. While making the drain valve the lowest point has you hold the B/C upside down open the valve and allow the water to flow out. If salt is still present or the water is not clear, drain and repeat the rinsing procedure. It is also a good idea to use some type of B/C cleaning solution as part of the process.
External Care - Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm (not over 120 degrees) water, paying particular attention to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make certain they are operating freely. With the bladder bag type B/C, rinse the zipper while moving the slide back and forth about 2" otherwise it may freeze shut with salt corrosion. Spray it with silicone after it dries. Spray the outside of the power inflator hose with silicone. This will help prevent the hose from deteriorating. (Be careful to avoid spraying silicone on plastic parts).Underwater Cameras - Before each day of diving, inspect O-ring(s) for cuts, tears, dirt or any damage. Clean all O-ring(s) then lubricate with a very light coating of the manufacture recommended type of O-ring grease. Replace any O-ring(s) if damaged. Latch and inspect all compartment doors. Replace all worn or damaged parts. At the end of each day of diving, all underwater camera equipment must be soaked in fresh water to remove salt deposits. Keep everything sealed while rising. Never use detergents, cleaners, solvents or chemicals to clean your camera equipment. The mask bucket on a boat is full of detergent – DO NOT USE THE MASK BUCKET TO RINSE YOUR PHOTO EQUIPMENT. Let the water drain from all of your camera equipment and wipe with a soft dry towel (such as a chamois) until dry. Be sure that you and your camera equipment are dry before opening any doors. Always keep the compartment cover O-ring clean, dry and free from obstructions such as sand, lint or salt crystals. For prolonged storage remove all batteries and insert fresh "Moisture Muncher" desiccant capsules.
Knives - All stainless steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat with a light layer of oil or silicone.
Wet Suits - After your dive, the wet suit should be washed thoroughly. A bathtub or large trash barrel can be used for washing the suit. Use wetsuit cleaner/conditioner (preferred) or warm (not over 120 degrees) water with a mild detergent. Agitate the suit up and down in the tub for about five minutes with all zippers open. After washing, all soap must be rinsed out. If your suit has an odor that soap cannot remove, use liquid stink guard, such as Mirazyme (preferred) or a half a cup of baking soda in warm water and stir in well. Agitate the suit up and down occasionally and after about a half hour of soaking, rinse thoroughly (DO NOT put your suit in a washing machine.) If you are going to dry your suit on hangers, it is extremely important that you use an extra wide hanger. If narrow or wood hangers are used, the suit will be damaged due to excessive creasing. After the suit has dried, the zipper should be lubricated with zipper wax.In the next couple of paragraphs we will explain the steps and procedures that we follow in servicing some of the more major components of life support gear. This is done in an effort to try and de-mystify what actually happens to your Regulator, B/C, or other piece of gear after you have dropped it off with the associate behind the sales counter.
Regulator Service Process (25 Step Protocol)
A scuba regulator is a complex piece of life-support equipment. It represents a considerable amount of investment and value. Over the life of your regulator, contaminates from sand, salt, and chlorine can corrode your regulator, affecting performance and reliability. That’s why it is necessary to have your gear serviced by a certified repair facility. Let the factory trained technicians at Aqua Immersion service your regulator. The (25) step protocol that we follow while servicing your regulator is as follows:Click Here To See How A Typical Regulator Is Made.
Click Here To See How A Typical SPG Is Made.
Buoyancy Compensator (B/C) Service Process (19 Step Protocol) Like your regulator, the buoyancy compensator is also an important piece of life-support equipment. It too represents a considerable amount of investment and value and over the life of your B/C, contaminates from sand, salt, and chlorine can corrode the components of your B/C, affecting performance and reliability. That’s why it is necessary to have your gear serviced by a certified repair facility. Let the factory trained technicians at Aqua Immersion service your buoyancy compensator. The (19) step protocol that we follow while servicing your B/C is as follows:Tank Inspection Process (18 Step Protocol)
The tanks that contain our breathing gas, regardless if it’s just air or 100% oxygen are just as important as the rest of our life support gear like the b/c and regulator and must be cared for with equal importance. We can take care of all of your cylinders, steel or aluminum, with services like VIP’s, hydro’s, tumbling, eddy current testing, and O2 cleaning for oxygen concentrations above 40%. As an additional benefit to our customers we include eddy current testing as part of our VIP process on ALL aluminum cylinders regardless of the year of manufacture. To learn more about sustained load cracking visit our “Gas Fill” section of the website under the “equipment” tab. At Aqua Immersion our technicians are PSI certified visual inspectors and we use the PSI (18) step protocol for completing VIP’s on your cylinders as follows:
§ Drain cylinder – test reserve mechanism and valve handle
§ Record background data – hydro date, heat damage, etc.
§ Remove accessories
§ Administer hammer test (on steel cylinders only)
§ Inspect exterior
§ Remove valve
§ Remove any foreign matter
§ View interior
§ Inspect interior
§ Inspect threads
§ Inspect o-ring
§ Inspect frangible disk
§ Make a Pass/Fail judgment
§ Install valve
§ Assemble accessories and apply EOI (Evidence Of Inspection) sticker
§ Fill cylinder and test for leaks
§ Complete forms
§ Return cylinder to owner
Click Here To See How A Typical Steel Cylinder Is Made.
Click Here To See How A Typical Aluminum Cylinder Is Made.Here are just some general observations we've made through the years:
Obviously, we are BIG fans of reasonable and regular service intervals. But this is not a one-size-fits-all deal. Variables include the number of dives, field maintenance and care, regulator make/model, etc. Most manufacturers recommend a year. Some use the number of dives. We suggest the following rule of thumb: Never dive your regulator if you don’t trust it to perform flawlessly, even in an unanticipated out-of-air emergency where a much greater demand is placed on it. If you don’t believe it is in this condition, have it serviced.
If you would like for us to service your gear simply download our Service Work Order Form, fill out the form and mail it along with your gear or drop off your gear to Aqua Immersion.
